Use Your Spincast Reel to Start a Fire in an Emergency
by PapaD
I hope to soon get back to posting more information and pictures of vintage spincast reels. I have a lot of notes and outlines and have taken a lot of reference photos for them--but time is at a premium. As I mentioned at the beginning of this blog, the plan was to have my next oldest brother who shared an interest in this subject, to impart a lot of his experience herein. As it turned out, Ernie died before this could happen and I wound up instead dedicating this blog to him. Meanwhile, I have been involved in health issues of my own and just life, which divides my ever-dwindling time between other higher priorities.
I write a few blogs other blogs. One teaches alternative methods of starting fire as one might find helpful in an emergency situation. The subject is another of my oddball interests that kinda just sprung up and grew over a lifetime--driven by a mildly OCD personality. I am only guessing that I may know more alternative methods for fire starting than anyone else in the world--maybe the universe. Ha. I mean, why would anyone else even want to know so many ways to start fire? Be-that-as-it-may, the blog is entitled One Hundred Ways to start Fire without Matches. I originally started it to teach my fifteen grandchildren how to do this and to provide a reference for them; some of them don't live close by. As a teaching tool, I try to cite real-life situations that people could conceivably find themselves in.
For example, a friend of mine fell into a ravine and broke his leg while trying to steal into his deer hunting tree stand before dawn without turning his flashlight on. He did have a flashlight, and due to his own tenacity and remarkable athleticism (he was once a lifeguard on the LA Beaches), he was able to crawl and hobble his way back to his car and get to the hospital. But this also shows that outdoors men and women, and really anyone, could find themselves in extreme situations that might call for unusual fire starting skills.
In one of the recent posts to that blog, I related an experience that my dad had in 1962, while we were living in Bethel Alaska. He and two friends were fishing in a remote area when their their plane crashed. Although they were not seriously hurt, it was days before they were located and rescued. Using this situation as a scenario wherein a fisherman might find himself in need of emergency fire starting methods, I showed two ways a particular Abu Garcia spincast reel might be used to start fire. Since I added these posts to my blog about fire starting, I thought it might be interesting for readers of here as well.
In this post I am including an excerpt from each of those two posts along with a link to each of them, thinking other fishermen and spincast reel enthusiasts might find them interesting.
The Real Reel Deal: #56 Starting Fire with a Fishing Reel
Start Fire with a Fishing Reel
by PapaD
I have made fire with each of the three main types of fishing reels. Each requires a different approach. The spincast works best, the Spinning reel requires a more sophisticated set-up. I have used older Johnson Century reels for this in the past with good success. They worked quickly and simply. Featured in this post is an Abu Garcia spincast reel.
Among the best sources that I have found for information about many of these old fishing reels is vintage outdoor magazine ads. Unlike Shakespeare reels, Johnson reels carried no serial numbers so there is no ready look-up that I am aware of. It is often hard to tell when particular reels were produced. There seems to have been a lot of overlap in the production of various different models. I had always thought that the Johnson SABRA model reels came into production during the mid-sixties and continued until the mid or late seventies, reaching their greatest popularity during the early seventies. I ran across a copy of this ad which appeared in 1961 in an outdoor magazine. It features the SABRA with its famous dual-drag system. My understanding is now revised to expand the marketing window of the Johnson SABRA reel.
This ad shows the SABRA right along side and contemporary with the Johnson Century 100 and the Johnson Citation 110. The Johnson Gull pretty much a mystery to me. It is another early reel that I don't know that much about, but which I plan to obtain and review. I have nver seen one that I recall. Only pictures. It looks much like the Centennial which have no working knowledge of that is of much use. i do think we had one among our tacle when I was a kid. I just don't recall much about it--wxcept that the reel itself was heavier than the others--if my recollection is accurate. During this time, the Johnson Centinniel was also beoing produced, or had only been discontinued a short time before.
Another vintage magazine ad from 1950, very early in the history of the spin-cast reel, for me casts a new light on their history as well. But also for me such ads raise as many questions as they answer. Of interest as well is the advertisement of tubular steel fly-fishin rods from the era.
In the copy of the advertisement above we see the latest offerings of the time. An early ZEBCO spin-cast reel is seen alongside of an early Johnson spin-cast reel. The Wright-McGill Fre-Line reel preceded both Johnson and ZEBCO reels. The Fre-Line is strikingly similar to the earliest model Johnsons such as the one pictured here. I generally don't count any of these reels when I think of vintage spin-cast reels. Although sideways mounted, the quality of worksmanship and green anodized aluminum bell most nearly represents what I first recognize as modern-day spin-cast reels.
In some ways, I suppose the ZEBCO is similar to modern reels, but it had no line-release button either. The Fre-Line was promoted as suitable for fly-fishing, spinning, or casting. It was one of several original designs that used the closed bell with the small hole within the middle--that in my mind inspired both Johnson and ZEBCO models--both which re credited with being the first patented spin-cast reels. None of these reels had any kind of line-release button that became so identifiable with later spin-cast reels. Maybe my definition is arbitrary, but it was the line-release button that merely had to be pressed and then released when the cast had gained enough forward momentum that spelled the defining simplicity that I recognize as characteristic to the modern spin-cast reel. clearly, the Johnson Century 100 was the first reel to make this a popular feature.
It is fun to see such ads as the one below that feature a gang of different products from the same era, lending context to what was going on at the time. The style of the ads from this era as well as the art-work typifies a look that is often attributed to Norman Rockwell. Part of this look was merely the best production work that could then be done with the printing processes then available. Drawn or painted art was prefered over photographs because the color gradations were able to be more easily reproduced using four-coor process work that was common to slick magazine production of the era.
The ad below was used in an outoor magazine in 1956. It features a pink Princess version of the Johnson Century 100 aimed at women and girls. The green version is depicted too. The Johnson Citation, a beefier model reel that hold more line was mentioned as well. All bases were being covered in these ads. The spin-cast reel as we came to know it was barely even invented at his early date. These reel models fueled an explosion in recreational fishing.
It may be interesting to note too that the pink Princess model spin-cast reels along with the inexpensive ZEBCO models--all attempts to corner broader segments of the market potential--may have been the reason spin-cast reels never gained the respect to make them a viable choice for the next generation of professional fishermen--who were incubating at this time. Professional torun ament style sport fishing is a relatively new sport also born of this era. Up and coming professional bass fishermen as well as well as other experienced fishermen were very likely put-off by any less thn macho identity with a pink reel that little princesses could use. It would be a mistake to underestimate the importance of a macho self-image was to this generation.
They did NOT want to be identified with a fishing reel that little girls could use--no matter how good the reel design was. It is only my own theory--having lived through this marketing cycle, and observed this phenomenon firsthand, that such marketing efforts may have actually led to discredit the spin-cast reel in the estimation of experienced fishermen. The message of ultimate simplicity and usefulness for any or everyone who wanted to fish that was conveyed, however, was probably more valuable economically, as it resulted in a vast number of fishing reels being sold.
It is also my contention that after the market had been trashed, that even ZEBCO had to distance itself from the novice fishing legacy it helped create by christening a new identity under which to market reels to the more experien ced an d profesional sportsfishermen. Quantum is this brand.
It did not take long for other manufacturers and vendors to adopt the new style of spin-cast reels from both established and respected fishing tackle names as well as numerous other upstart companies. As mentioned in other posts, the new design of spin-cast reels dove-tailed with Japan's rise to manufacturing prominence. Such old names as South Bend, Shakespeare, Wright-McGill, Penn all jumped on board with their models of spin-cast reels. Diawa was one of the Japanese reel makers that was well-made and that survives. Abu Garcia, a Swedish company was one of the old-timers that followed with many successful spin-cast reel designs very similar to the Johnson models.
The copy of a vintage ad below is early enough that the Johnson Century 100 model is still being referred to as the Denison-Johnson spin-cast reels. This was the name of the Johnson reel company that preceded the Johnson Century. The co-inventor of these reels, Denison, died before he ever saw the Johnson Century reel in production. The company's name was changed shortly thereafter.
Let me here take opportunity to correct a wide-spread piece of misinformation that has been spread all over the Internet. Samuel C. Johnson, a third generation principle of the Johnson Wax Company is being credited with inventing the spin-cast reel. I suppose this is a simple enough mistake to make if no research has been done. Samuel C. Johnson was indeed a big outdoorsman and environmentalist who later saw the purchase of the Johnson Reel Company a couple of decades after Dennison-Johnson invented their version of the spin-cast reel and successfully began the Johnson Reel Company. But the name similar name is mere coincidence. It was a different Johnson who co-invented the reel and started the company.
I don't have a Johnson Princess reel, so I borrowed this picture of a nice one that is advertised on eBay. They are asking a pretty penny for it--and they may get it as it seems to be in perfect condition and has the books with it. I am including the link to this ebay listing since I borrowed the picture. I have no other knowledge or association to this seller or the listing. I can't imagine that they will mind, since it is further advertisng for them.
I have often heard old
timers say they could smell water-moccasins. Anytime I notice this odor, I
go on high-alert and watch my step. I have never been much afraid of
snakes.
Yesterday, I took two vintage reels to my pond to see how well they
were working after cleaning them up and lubricating them. I had one of
them mounted on a rod that I had fashioned by combining a vintage metal
rod handle and rod seat someone sent me with an old reel and an old
tubular glass rod that had a broken reel seat and handle. The new configuration was not really planned but it worked well
enough with the Johnson 710 reel. It is gratifying to
reclaim this stuff and give it new life.
The Johnson 710 era reel from the mid-sixties to the seventies, I am not sure exactly what years, is considered by many to be the best spin-cast reel ever made, due to its extraordinary two-stage drag coupled with its tried and proven simple spool and release design. The weakest link on earlier models was clearly the drag. This specific reel tosses a lightweight spinning lure a surprisingly long way with little effort, using this vintage hybrid cast aluminum rod seat and handle paired with a broken vintage fiberglass rod. Salvaging both rod pieces from discards, I was able to solidly fuse a section of fiberglass rod together with the six-sided rod mount for an extraordinary feel of what is going on with the line and the lure.
Vintage casting and spin-cast rods generally used cast metal or welded steel for their frame. The rod seat is recessed to allow the horizontal position of the fishing line to align closely with the eyes of the fishing rod from the exit point on the reel. The handle portion of the rod is often covered with cork or wound with leather or twine or covered with moulded rubber or synthetics. The rod was commonly attached to the reel seat and handle using a threaded two to three inch hollow section of the handle which was secured with a compression nut. The actual material of the rod was made from various materials including bamboo, steel, tubular and solid fiberglass, and more recently graphite. Each rod material has its own characteristics which can be either pro or con for given situations.
Obvious characteristics that have been sought in casting rods have historically been strength, limberness, and flexibility which combine to provide different levels of spring tension which has become known as the action of the rod. Casting and spin-cast rods on action to propell the attached lure than does either spinning rods pr fly-rods, since manual thrust and gravity are the chief propellants--but the action is very important to retrieval when a fish is attached. The ability of the rod to transmit the least amount of resistance trhough the line to the rod tip on down into the handle where the hand can interpret the tug is very important to modern fishermen who depend upon this feel to determine when a fish is engaging with the lure and when to set the hook.
This
specific reel tosses a lightweight spinning lure a surprisingly long
way with little effort, using this vintage hybrid cast aluminum rod seat
and handle paired with a broken vintage fiberglass rod.
I am only guessing from the style of the old cast metal fishing handle and rod seat that it was originally attached to a solid fiberglass rod, although this same style rod was used with steel rods and bamboo rods too. The hex-shaped prod attachment tube lends some thought that the handle was attached to a bamboo rod, as these were sometimes pieced together in split quarters and pieces of bamboo to enhance rod strength and all of the characteristics mentioned above. The compression nut is missing from the rod handle. I may try to make one or find an existing nut used for plumbing or gas lines since the original type of nut are nearly impossible to find by themselves.
Another name for a water-moccasin is Cotton-Mouth. Thus,
Cotton Floats helps us remember that it is the poisonous variety of
snakes that float.
But for now, I merely used epoxy to solidify the tubular rod that I had from a broken handle by adding a piece of fiberglass dowel and gluing it into place. This fused it all solidly together. I wound the outer rod and metal piece with synthetic thread and then epoxied the outer part which more or less melted it all together. The rod has more flex than I would prefer as it is, but it casts nicely and does seem to adequately transmit the feel from the lure and the line. I caught a small bass with the rig while I was trying it yesterday and it worked just fine. The Johnson 710 reel is a great compliment to the repaired rod hybrid. This is a 710 with the earlier rounded bell. It looks just like the similar SABRA except that it is smaller. The gears and two-stage drag appears exactly like the SABRA too, except it is s little smaller.
The Johnson 710 Reel is One of the Best Reel Designs
Since the spool is smaller the reel will accommodate less line or a smaller diameter line. Line materials have changed a lot since this reel was made, so higher test lines could be used with it than was ever intended originally. I am still stymied as to why the number 710 was applied to this reel as a model number designation. It may hit me out of the blue like a ton of bricks and I will feel stupid as to why I did not figure it out sooner, but for now I am at a loss.
The 710 is the only Johnson reel that carried only a number as its name. The bigger model of the same design is the SANGA. It is just like the 710, only larger and beefier and holds more line. The SANGA is the only Johnson reel model that carries ONLY a lettered name--just the opposite of the 710. The name SANGA has history-specific significance that is inked to historical events happening during the mid-sixties in Israel. The name during this time-period is also synonymous with versatility and toughness. The marketers and owners of Johnson Reel company appeared to be having a good time naming their different reel models. If only I could decipher the reason for the out-of-sequence model number of the 710. Any ideas? If so, please add your comments. (There is a more complete discussion about the interesting names of Johnson reels at my post entitled Meet the Sanga Family . . . . )
I saw a host of turtles on my pond while I was there yesterday. One big one
appeared to be leading a flotilla of smaller turtles. I have always been
fascinated with how these painted water turtles seem to face in the
same direction as they float stationary just below the surface with
their heads pointed as if paying morning alms to Mecca upon any given
body of water. I suppose they are using the sun to orient themselves in
order to see insects or something. I had never seen several moving
together at the same speed in the same direction as a group. There must
have been five or six. Maybe it was just coincidence. As a kid I used to
practice my casting aim by trying to hit turtles in the water--but only
when they were in approximately the area where I wanted to fish.
Some turtle species are highly prized as food. In America at least the painted turtle is not one of the edible varieties. In most geographies they are also protected by game and fish laws. Other varieties may be protected by special Acts of Congress intended to preserve environmentally threatened species. Painted Turtles are common all over the world. They are apparently a very effective design. I understand that Painted Turtles are endangered in parts of Asia, especially in China,
because they are eaten and used for medicinal purposes.
To many rod and
reel fishemen, turtles present a nuance as bait stealers and are
an aggravation when caught. The best way to deal with a painted turtle
on the end of your line is to cut the line off and let it fall back in
the water. There are other varieties of turtles that can easily take off
a finger or even an arm. Although painted turtles are not the same as
snapping turtles, they do have sharp beaks that can easily cut through a
piece of cut fish bait. It is not a leap to understand that they can
similarly cut through your skin. All turtles are part of a environmentally balanced water ecosystem. They serve much the same purpose as do birds that eat carrion. I once thought that these turtles fed on live fish and minnow and were a threat to my ponds fish balance. My research has proved this to be incorrect. Painted Turtles feel on dead or dying fish, insects including misquitoes, and help keep our water free from rotting debris.
Catching a mess of fish for supper on a cane pole with hook, worm, and cork is still a popular and viable activity in the South. Until the advent of the spin-cast reel that made long casts from the bank inexpensive and easy for rank-and-file fishermen, this was the only method commonly used. Bait-cast reels were expensive and required skill to use. Spinning reels did not require as much skill, but they were expensive and were only suited for light-weight lures. Fly-fishing was virtually unheard of in these parts. A can pole and stout line can handle a wide range of fish from small sunfish varieties to big catfish.
Worms, crickets, and minnows are often used live baits and will take all kinds of fish. Stink baits or blood baits are still used for catfish. Catalpa worms, a seasonal caterpillar found only on native broad-leaf Catalpa Trees at certain times are thought to be the best catfish bait known. But regular old red earthworms and larger night-crawlers are still the universal fishing bait for all fishes.
I was distracted from the turtle flotilla by a large water snake
disturbing the water with his fat stubby body floating entirely on top
of the pond. Having their entire body on the surface is supposed to mean
that it is a poisonous variety--at least within the Continental United
states. I have been told this all my life--but I used to get it mixed
up. I couldn't remember if it was the poisonous snakes that floated or
the nonpoisonous ones--which is pretty much like knowing nothing at all.
Plastic Worms are a Relatively New Phenomenon
Hard though it may be to fathom by modern fishermen, plastic worms are a relatively new development. They have come about in my lifetime. In face almost all artificial lures have come into use within just a few generations. The first commercial plastic worms that were widely available were already rigged with a line and two hooks with a spinner and a bead. This is not withstanding that people knew you could sometimes catch bass on a purple pipe cleaner carefully twisted around a hook and retrieved in a lively way.
The Texas Rig and the Carolina Rig for weedless fishing in cover using plastic worms came about only thirty or so years ago. Without much guidance written for the use of plastic worms back in the day, the natural inclination was to simply put the worm on the hook much like a live worm. This was not very productive for most situations. It was then considered a sure tip-off that you had no savvy with using plastic worms if you hooked them through the middle and just let them hang. You would get laughed at for showing such lack of experience.
Placing a worm on a hook in what we today call Senko-style almost looked ridiculous to me the first time I saw it. I had my doubts when I first rigging this type of worm. But I quickly found the simple equidistant hook placement midways into the worm body that allows the worm to shimmer in a natural free-fall can be effective in situations around trees and other areas where bass await their natural food to arrive in just such a manner from directly above.
Just after taking this photograph, I tossed the worm out near an overhanging branch. It was taken by a good size bass. It had taken a pass at the worm previously and I had seen his broad side as it flashed in the afternoon sun. As I attempted to set the thook, the fishing line went slack and faded into the water. It was new line, but I realized that I must have gotten a drop of epoxy on it near where it entered the reel, which essentially melted and weaken the line. I am hopeful that the bass is able to shake the hook. I hope it did not set at all. This is not quite catch-and-release at its very worst.
Then I learned a little maxim to help with this. Cotton Floats.
One of the four poisonous snake varieties found in North America is the
water-moccasins. These are the only primarily water snakes that are
poisonous. Another name for a water-moccasin is Cotton-Mouth. Thus,
Cotton Floats helps us remember that it is the poisonous variety of
snakes that float. This can be misleading though, because when a
cotton-mouth transitions from traveling undisturbed to hiding from
a potential predator, they can go underwater and will sometimes just
peak a head up. So always exercise care. Cotton mouths have a white
inside mouth. They are usually a dull black or grey and although they
can get quite long, they tend to be fat and taper quickly to the tail
end.
Water-Moccasins have a Bad Smell that May Serve as a Warning
I associate a nasty smell of stagnate mud with water-moccasins, and
maybe all water snakes. I don't know if this actually is from stagnant
mud from them having it on their bodies or if it is some kind of musky
smell that comes from the snakes themselves. I have often heard old
timers say they could sell water-moccasins. Anytime I notice this odor, I
go on high-alert and watch my step. I have never been much afraid of
snakes. I have been in the outdoors traipsing around snaky lakes and
swamps all of my life and have never been bitten--although I been
alarmed fro time to time. I have seen lots of snakes. I know the
difference in appearance between poisonous and nonpoisonous snakes if I
get a good look at them. I believe that the danger posed by snakes in
North America is greatly exaggerated. I saw two other snakes
yesterday--one in the pond coming ashore and the other in a willow
growing at the pond edge. I think these were both immature Yellow Water
Snakes. It promises to be a banner snake year from these early signs.
I keep a Kayak
on my pond. Yeah, I know it is hard on the plastics to leave them
exposed to Ultraviolet. I keep it stored when I am not using it often,
and I have a cover for it as well. I have looked for a protectant to
apply to the surface. I recently found several UV protectants online while I was looking at
different Kayak accessories. I'll leave a link for this at the bottom of this post, and I will review this one and any others I find in the near future. This Kayak is new to me this year. I have
another one, but I saw a deal I couldn't refuse on this sit-on-top
Emotion Tandemonium model. These are pretty popular and I like this one a
lot, but I am having to customize it to my satisfaction. I have wanted
one of this style kayak for fishing for a while now. My other one is a
more conventional type Kayak with a entry cockpit that you sit inside, which is fine for some things but as my
personal mobility is increasingly compromised each year with age and illness, I have difficulty using the sit-inside style kayak.It is not ideal when you find tht the easiest way to disembark from your boat by intentionally capsizing in water deep enough to swim downward far enough to clear it.
There has been a explosion in the varieties of kayaks available today--from the more conventionally shaped sit-inside plasic craft to the sit-on-top plastic variety which lends greater stability and accessibility for big (fat) guys like me. My age and health may hinder my mobility walking and even being able to stand from the flat sitting position required by the sit-on-top model, but with a little ingenuity it does not have to prevent me from fishing from this more stable and portable platform. Using my bean-bag style kayak Ass-Set portable seat and flotation device, if I can get my old body there, I can then fish from the boat. The Ass-Set provides both back and butt support in good comfort as well as enough height above the kayak surface to make embarking and disembarking--from the seat, the kayak, and the water--if not easy, at least possible. The seat is light-weight and portable and it doubles as a flotation device in the unlikey event of capsizing. In such an event, the sit-on-top kayak style is more easily righted and boarded--even by a crippled old fat man.
Boats are quite often pertinent to any discussion of fishing methods. Often getting there is one of the most important ingredients to successful fishing. My dad usually kept a Jon-boat, which is a small flat-bottomed boat made for one-to-three passengers for fishing in lakes typical of the South that have a lot of Cypress trees and stumps growing in them. These boats are small and light-weight. They are sufficiently wide enough to provide a great deal of stability even while standing. they are usually built with two or three bench seats. They can be used with or without a gas-operated outboard motor or electric trolling motor. The stern of a Jon-boat is about half again as wide as is the bow.Jon-boats are also used to navigate and fish smaller streams and rivers, but not large ones or big waters with white-capping winds.
The bow of a Jon-boat is slightly up-swept along about the last quarter of the length with make forward navigation easier. A fisherman can sit in the bow of the boat and reach forward with a short sculling paddle and propel a boat slowly but precisely into very small nooks and crannies to tie up and fish or check trot-lines and whatnot. This is done by moving the paddle in a figure-eight pattern in the water while slightly forward leaning, which pulls the boat along very efficiently.
Jon-boats are now commonly made of aluminum. When I was a child, it was common to have Jon-boats made of wood. I remember when I was five years old, Dad having a local boat-builder make him a wooden Jon-boat. I recall the smell of fresh unfinished wood when he brought it home in his '57 Ford pick-up truck. Dad let me help him paint it with gray enamel paint. I am not sure what kind of wood the boat was made of but it was common to use black-gum or cypress to make boats because these woods are naturally impervious to water-logging; such trees thrive in swamps and lakes. The longitudinal boards of a wooden Jon-boat follow the grain of the wood and are carefully seasoned and then planed and put together very precisely and both nailed and glued to cross-pieces that keep them flush together almost as one piece. Jon-boats are still popular in the South for fishing.
The kinds of available small fishing boats have changed a lot during my life-time, as can
be said for so many things. I suppose that my generation is one of two
or three who have witnessed more changes than any others in history. This has had
its upside as well as its downside. I have mostly enjoyed the changes.
When I was a kid, kayaks were seldom used--except real ones by real
Eskimos who invented them. Canoes were fairly popular, but even they
were not in widespread usage in many places. For those who did use
them, aluminum canoes were the thing. They floated high, drawing very
little water, lending them to shallow streams where others could not go.
They were relatively heavy for portaging and getting to and from water,
but they could be carried on top of a vehicle easily enough. They were
tough too.
Canoes were originally developed and used by Native Americans--also known as Indians by some of us. Canadians apparently don't approve of this term, nor do they like the term Eskimo. However, most American Natives that I am acquainted with are from the USA; they are pleased to be called Indians or the most part, named more specifically by tribe. Inuits are what Alaskan Eskimos are now called, to be politically correct, but there again, all whom I know have no problem being referred to as Eskimos. I know a lot of them from my childhood family escapades, living in the Alaskan Bush. I am of very mixed heritage; but both my wife and I have substantial Indian lineage ourselves.
Apparently Canadian Native American Natives of the non-Indian, non-Eskimo variety
are said to be more sensitive about this. This is problematic for me
because I can never remember what they do like to be called. I am not
trying to offend anyone, so I will look it up and get back with you
after using this place-holder until I find it. Native Americans of what is now Canada and the Northern United States
fist develop real canoes. Canoes can be differentiated from more
primitive dug-outs in that they were made by first building a light
frame from pliable green limbs that were allow to dry--and then covering
the frame with bark. I feel sure that so e other barks may have been
used, but I know that Birch Bark is light and tough an d can be
stripped off of trees in large pieces. The bark was then seamed with
cordage and various resins to make the seams water-tight. These craft
were so light that they drew very little water, were reasonably tough,
and could be easily mended by readily available materials on the fly.
Flat-bottom boats, also commonly called Jon-boats, are made of wood or alluminum. They are a common site as used for fishing on small Southern fishing lakes. These rental boats at Lake Herb Parsons in Western Tennessee provide a lot of stability for family fishing. Such boats are commonly used with paddles or with small electric trolling motors and small gas-powered outboard motors. They are also popular for duck-hunting. A savvy fisherman can manuever a Jon-boat into position manually using a short-handled sculling paddle while seated in the more narrow bow by leaning forward and moving the paddle in a crepeated figure-eight patern--which slowly propells the boat forward. Oar locks are not generally used with Jon-boats. One or more occupants change the side from which they use their paddles to provide direction and momentum.
White European fur-traders and frontiersmen immediately saw the utility of canoes and adopted them for fur-trading. Though recognized widely as unique North American boats and used regionally, they did not catch on much elsewhere. European settlers and specialty boat-builders made beautiful canoes of spruce
timbers finely chosen, fitted, and finished to a high luster. These are
works of art. They are almost too fine to mess up by actually using.
paraffin treated canvas has also been used to make canoes. Fiberglass
and plastics --the difference in which is largely academic, were
starting to be used when I was a young man. Fiberglass canoes were tough
but heavy. Coleman was the first company to make wide use of
modern plastics to make canoes. Those original Coleman canoes were
tough, but relatively heavy, owing to their wooden or metal
infrastructures. Fiberglass and plastic canoes draw more water than do aluminum, or canvas canoes (Canvas canoes can draw lots of water as well, depending upon the weight of the frame).
Who says cats don't like water. This crazy stray loves to ride--giving new meaning to catfishing. My waterproof Ass-Set bean-bag uses boyant lightwieght filling in lieu of beans. The filling can be portioned, increased, or redistributed using a secondary bag. It is portable and impossible to sink and the whole thing is waterprooof. The seat provides enough height for me to get up and down inspite of my weight and imobility issues.
[The term draw, when used in the context of how much water a canoe draws, refers to how far down or how high up the craft rides on the water. Thus, saying that an aluminum canoe draws very little water, means that it rides very high on the water and therefore is capable of crossing shoals and other shallow areas more easily than a craft that draws more water. Generally, canoes and kayaks draw very little water because of their design and their light weight. This has always made them suitable for navigating shallow and narrow inland waterways.]
When I was in elementary school I lived in the Arctic. Canoes were not used there. The frigid waters during the brief summers were so cold that it was unthinkable to consider a craft that could be so easily capsized. The life-expectancy for one who falls into these waters is a matter of minutes before hypothermia causes death. However, during this time I became infatuated with the idea of canoeing and fantasized about traversing the rivers of the South where my roots lay. I got my hands on several books that dealt with the principles of canoeing and the various strokes that could be used to quickly and precisely navigate canoes with one two or three passengers.
I dreamed and visualized enjoying such activities so much during this time when there was no opportunity or even possibility of actually doing them that when I was finally able to get into a canoe--with the exception of briefly having to learn the trick of keeping ones weight centered and evenly distributed--that I took to using a canoe like an old timer. I have often thought of this unintentional use of visualization as an example of how skills can be learned, perfected, and practiced completely within ones imagination, in preparation for the real activity.
The Mississippi and Arkansas Rivers are too big and treacherous to be used with canoes except by the very experienced and daring. But many smaller clear-water rivers and streams in the south are ideal for canoeing. The Buffalo National River and Little Red River the White River are scenic North Arkansas rivers upon which I have spent many hours as a teen and young adult. In Southern Arkansas, the Saline and Quaita Rivers flowed and were part of my youthful recreational experience. Some of those once familiar sections of these rivers are now part of reservoirs that offer a different kind of recreational experience. This is not a bad thing--just different.
I remember when the Heber Springs Dam in Arkansas that harnessed the flow of the Little Red River near where some of my uncles lived was visited by then President John F. Kennedy. He dedicated it as an example of a great hydro-electric dam project, that brought abundant electricity to the area. The electricity that it brought was a good thing, but the Lake it created, Greer's Ferry Lake, was a wonderful adjunct for sportsmen and outdoor lovers in the area. The cool waters created by the depths of this lake also created a new phenomenon in those parts. Trout-fishing was introduced and has thrived ever since.
Cow Shoals, not far below the Greer's Ferry Lake Dam was created by the release of waters from the bottom of the lake when electricity is being generated. There is a trout hatchery located near there. The success of the transplantation of Brown Trout, Rainbow Trout, and Cutthroat trout into the tail-waters of the Little Red Red River here is one of the great successes of bringing tout to an area that previously had very few waters cold enough to have natural trout populations. I have fly-fished the Cow Shoals area for trout many times. The last I recall, the national Brown Trout weight and length record was caught in these very waters.
A similar story can be told regarding sections of the White River that artificially forms a number of lakes in Arkansas including Beaver Lake and lake Norfork. As a Boy Scout lving nearby, I was a participant in the first annual White River Invitational Canoe Race. This was a hundred mile race down a scenic section of the white River below the Norfork Lake Dam. There were three kids to a canoe. We began near Norfork park where the now famous Gaston's River Trout Resort hosted a fish-fry for us the night before we put in. I remember how our few canoes were borrowed from a local University on a whim so that we could participate. We were met with specialized Scouting High Adventure Explorer Posts from all over the nation and their sleek racing canoes, participants wearing racing wet-suits, and back-packed water bottles with racing straws and mouth pieces such as we had never seen (designed for the canoeists to drink without breaking the rhythm of their paddle strokes).
The following is a link to the Annual White River Canoe Race I participated in as a scout during its beginning, and later as an adult scout leader. The race is now in its 47th year.
http://www.scoutrace.com/
Some of our scouts from our regular Boy Scout Troop, had never even been in a canoe, but we all had heart. I will never forget waking up the morning after the first fifty miles where we over-nighted in Batesville before the second leg. When I stretched a hearty morning stretch, every muscle in my body cramped. After the second leg, I slept for a couple of days virtually comatose except for delirious dreams of paddles flashing in the sun. We did not win--not by a long-shot. but we did finish, which is more than quite a few more experienced participants could say.
Years later, my wife and I later served as the adult scouters supporting our participating Varsity Scout Group, bringing our little children along for the experience. We were the ground support and transportation for our participating scouts. By then, the race had become a three-day event for a total of one-hundred twenty miles. Our scouts were no better prepared than was my initial charter group, but great memories were made during both adventures. I have since trout fished up and down the White River from the Norfork Dam to Sylamore Springs and various secret spots in between.
Further down the river, where my oldest brother lived in Truman, the Whiter River flattens out and becomes much broader and deeper. here I have run trot-lines and yo-yos and caught catfish and bass aplenty. The White River eventually merges with the Arkansas River which in turn merges with the mighty Mississippi River. Different kinds of fish peculiar to the South such as Alligator Gar and the prehistoric Paddle-fish inhabit these parts of these waters. All of these present their own peculiar fishing challenges. However, I can honestly ay that no challenge have I met fishing any of these varied waters that those great old vintage spin-cast fishing reels could not handle in good stead. No other singular type of fishing reel--especially from that era--can do the same.
This vintage cast aluminum rod handle and rod seat came with this vintage Johnson 710 spin-cast reel. I had a vintage, but newer fiberglass casting rod made of composite that broke while casting. From the looks of the rod mount tube on the old metal handle, it was originally used with a six-sided bamboo pole. By cutting the fiberglass rod off cleanly and using epoxy to solidly splice an extension inside the old rod and to conform it to the rod handle, the resulting hybrid vintage combination provides excellent casting qualities and feel transmitted through the lure, line, and rod to the handle for an uncommon spin-cast experience. It is ideal for use with the old Johnson reel.
Although not nearly so glamorous as using fly-tackle, these old spin-cast reels can be used with flies both dry and wet, aided by a little additional weight in the form of either tiny split-shot and/or a cork or plastic fishing float, to place any fly in front of any kind of trout in the the upper stretches of the White River. In the big lakes that lie above or between these rivers, the same spin-cast reels will easily cast a full-sized plug or bait live or artificial and easily retrieve a big walleye, bass, carp, or catfish. Or within the middle sections where fish are want to be taken on spinners small or large--the very same spin-cast gear will do the job as well as any. I have owned and do own way more fishing gear than is needful or even useful--just because. I have spinning reels and bait-cast reels and fly-rods and reels. But I do understand and most often choose those vintage go-to standards choices of an era past. They don't get any better.
During this same period of my childhood, Kayaks were seen only as depicted in use by Alaskan Eskimos
and other arctic peoples until about thirty years ago or less. I did not even see one in actual use while living in the Arctic where they were once used comm0nly. These
were originally specialized craft made of frames of bone or willow limbs that were
covered with seal or other animal skins. A hole was open in the top
where the user got in and covered up with a like seal-skin skirt and
effectively sealed-in for the duration of the hunting trip against
frigid arctic waters. Using their unique two-ended paddles such light
craft could be maneuvered with agility and used in conjunction with
other hunters similarly outfitted, kayaks were used to hunt everything
from seals to whales.
About thirty years ago, small plastic kayaks exploded in to use recreational. An entire sport of white-water enthusiasts embraced
these new craft. They quickly began seeing use by anglers who liked
their portability and affordability. Around this time, I was an avid and
accomplish canoeist. I like aluminum canoes and took to them like
nothing else. The first time I got into a canoe at scout camp with two
other scouts, we swamped it immediately. Canoes require a different kind
of balance, but once this is learned, they are very stable. They are
very maneuverable. There are canoe strokes and techniques used with
properly fitted paddles that make soloing very easy without having to
switch sides to paddle. I became a die-hard fan of canoes for most of my
adult life. I still enjoy canoes.I don't recall the last time I
capsized a canoe. I used to stand on opposing gunwales barefoot and
engage in an activity called gunwale-jumping without the slightest fear
of capsizing. But no more. Age takes its toll.
Jon-boats have been in use in the South for fishing and duck hunting small bodies of water ever since Europeans first settled here. Until recently, they were made of wood. These boats are relatively inexpensive and provide a stable platform from which to fish or shoot. They can be manuevered though swampy waters and shallow streams. Pictured is an old boat that is likely the remnants of a duck-blind.
I first used a plastic kayak on the Buffalo National River. This is a tame but scenic float on the only River to ever be designated a National River. This designation a has ensured that at least one river in our nation will be preserve in its uninterrupted and free-flowing state for fishermen, nature-lovers, and canoe and kayak boaters can enjoy it from its tiniest original flow to its mouth. kayaks are one of the crafts of choice for floating this river. The Buffalo sustains small bass and goggle-eye rock-bass and perch and varied species of sun-fish. It is not a deep river along most of its flow, but some of the holes are too broad and deep to be easily traversed or waded while fishing. A canoe is not ideal lone fishermen. The earl plastic kayaks were okay for fishing except for their tendency to turn this way or that or rotate stern to bow endlessly.
Sit-on-top kayaks are fairly new. They generally have wider
but flatter frames which make them more stable than most
conventional-style kayaks. They are very light and float high in the
water. They are virtually impossible to swamp. A canoe can be un-swamped
and re-boarded by a fit canoeist, but it requires training in special
technique for doing this, and it requires superb strength agility and
fitness to be successful at this. However, just for informational
purposes, a swamped canoe will still keep multiple passengers who have
capsized afloat as long as they merely hang onto the sides and not crawl
on top of it. Sit-on-top kayaks can turn over, but they are virtually
impossible to swamp. Their slight topside-indention will not hold enough
water to submerge them if the interior portal is kept closed. They can
be easily turned upright and emptied of water. This is all advantageous
for many types of users. This design is also easier to get in an d out
of.
One of the drawbacks of the sit-on-top kayak design is that
there is no place to put your legs which can be quite uncomfortable as
you become less limber and out of shape (or fat and old and crippled).
However, with all the advantages this style of boat provides for a
fisherman, I have felt that with the proper kind of seat, I could use
one to good avail. They are so maneuverable and draw so little water
that they can be used about anywhere. They are light enough to be
potable and they are stable to sit on for fishing. They can carry a lot
of gear or extra passengers. I like to be able to carry an ice-chest a
lot of fishing tackle and an electronic fish-finder and sometimes my
wife and a dog. I like the versatility to navigate different kinds of
waters. But at my age and physical condition, a comfortable seat cushion
and adequate back-support could be a deal-killer.
There is an impressive kayak accessory market that includes a wide
variety of seats for virtually every use. People like me want enough
height to be able to make standing from a seated position within the
kayak more manageable without capsizing or busting a gut or blowing out a
knee. The seats that I have found that have enough height for me to
manage standing comfortably from and still have good stability when used
on my sit-on-top kayak are either very heavy or too flimsy or both. I
sometimes like tying to find solutions to such problems. As they say
necessity is the mother of invention. Usually when I find a solution to a
problem that I have encountered--it is also applicable as a solution
for others. I think I have found just such a solution for sitting
comfortably atop a kayak with sufficient height and stability for my
needs.
My new seat design is essentially a water-proof bean-bag filled with
light waterproof and highly buoyant particles instead of beans. The
entire seat weighs less than five pounds but will accommodate a large
adult male. It provides instant stability and conforms to my body with
unmatched comfort and support. It does not have to be strapped down or
to the kayak for stability, but it can be. It can be distributed in
different ways at different times or the filler can be added or removed
to a secondary pillow-bag. The seat is extraordinarily comfortable and
it also doubles as a great full-body flotation device in case of
capsizing. Another similar seat is equally suitable for a second
passenger or dog.
This seat, I have named the top-on Kayak Ass-Set makes long fishing
trips that were previously out of the question for me--now at least
doable. A user of this seat may get some funny looks initially--but
these looks are always followed by nods of approval, thumbs-up, and
questions about where they can be had. I am working on this. Inquiries
regarding prices and availability are being established as has been a
patent-pending status and production methods. If I do not produce these
for resale, I will provide detailed instructions about how to make them.
One way or the other, I will make this new design available for those
who want one.
I can tell you from my own experience that it will be less
expensive and way less trouble for you to buy one if I produce them for
resale. This is what I am looking into now. If I do not perceive enough
demand to mass produce these seats for less than you can personally
make one for--I simply will not produce them. But I will share my design
and the dos and don'ts that I have learned by perfecting my own ideal
kayak seat.
This is one of the UV Protectant Product that I have found. I cannot yet vouch for it, but I will provide a review in the future.
303 Aerospace Kayak Protectant 8 oz. This one seem to be the most well-known are is recommended by those who whould be in the know.
This is one Johnson reel model that I haven't had in recent years that I recall our family having at least one of when I was a kid. The Johnson 120 Centennial spin-cast reel reel came out around 1957 I think. It was made quite differently than other Johnson spin-cast reel models. It was a solid reel. The back part that contained the gears was made of cast metal and was sealed similar to sealed bearings. They were not intended to be serviced at home as were most Johnson models. The drag of the Centennial worked better than did the concurrent Century 100 and Citation 11o models. The main apparatus of the drag appears to have been very similar to the later model drags used in the beefier models such as the SANGA, and the 710.
The spools were easily changed for different line weights or types with the Centennial, just as were the Century, and I believe them to be the same spools.
The first few paragraphs have been repeated from a previous post in order to provide context as to how the bait-cast ree impacted the success and failures of the popular vintage spin-cast reels with which they competed during the early years of spin-cast history.
Companies such as famous Sweedish Abu-Garcia and Japanese Diawa not only produced excellent spin-casting reels quickly on a par with Johnson and Zebco
and a host of other similar designs--they also produced both true
spinning reels of the under-hanging open-face varieties as well as
medium to high-end bait-casting reels unlike any reels seen before.
Anti-backlash designs--some harnessing the physics or controlled
centrifugal force and others using the physics of magnets--began to
boast simple back-lash-free operation. Some designs used both
centrifugal force and magnets to prevent the crazy over-spin that had
previously led to the dreaded birds-nests that could ruin a
bait-caster's afternoon. However, the battle was won more by smart
marketing campaigns, in my own estimation, than from truly better
fishing alternatives to spin-casting reels.
Indeed, bait-casting reels were much improved over their
predecessors, but they still required greater skill that came only from
practice and a sensitive and well-educated feel of the thumb to quell
the tangles of the bird's nest. There was even by then--and is to this
day--a likelihood for having at least an occasional mess of knots in the
reel even with the most-sophisticated and expensive bait-casting reel
designs. They quite simply did still then and do still now--require a
good measure more of operator skill to fish without handicap than did
even the least expensive spin-cast reels. How bait-cast reels made a
gradual but steady come-back over spin-cast reels is largely a study in how great marketing can turn negatives into positives.
Now
vintage relics themselves, Garcia bait-cast reels similar to the one
pictured above made following the general pattern of the famous Garcia
Ambassadeur 500 series proliferated and evolved during the same years as
did Johnson's Spin-cast reels. Advertisements for both types of reels
are the best documentation of the competitive drama that unfolded
between these fishing reel types during the reel wars. These bait-castin
g reels are wonderful reels. They are not are not as foolproof to use
as spin-cast reels.
There had always been a sense of pride that went with knowing how to fish with bait-casting reels. It requires skill to. The REAL
fishermen--the guys who had paid their dues with a lifetime of
bait-casting birds-nests and blistered thumbs (from controlling the
rapidly careening spool of fishing line being driven by a big old plug or a treble-hook
and a gob of blood-bait with thumb tension)--were not yet ready to
concede their skills as outmoded. There was a kind of not altogether
undeserved label of sissy fishing reels that developed
regarding spin-casting reels. After-all, with five minutes of
instruction, any child old enough to have basic major limb
control--heater little boys, or girls and women--could be out casting
well-seasoned macho bait-casting fishermen using a Johnson Century or
comparable spin-casting reel. It didn't seem quite fair.
Since I Have this Hard-earned Experience, I am Sharing it with Others. No-one should ever have to Endure this Again.
This is probably the most that I will ever refer to bait-casting
reels in this weblog. I should therefore take opportunity to add my take
and my experience upon how to deal with the inevitable back-lashed
bird's nest condition so often wrought by their use. Whether one can
recover from a backlash situation depends in large measure on the amount
of time and patience one cares to devote to the problem. How much money
you are willing to justify losing is also a factor. If I was a
professional bass tournament fishermen in competition, which I will
never be, I would deal with a backlash by picking up the favorite
similar reel and continuing without missing more than a beat or two. I
have certainly done this.
Short of that, I might whip out my razor sharp knife and cut the
back-lashed bird's nest into a bunch of pieces, which will usually allow
it to be quickly stripped off and retied onto a lure onto good line
underneath the tangled part. I have also done this. There is a reason
that spools usually hold way more line than is necessary to make even
the longest casts possible. this is reality. Using this remedy be
careful not to pick the good portion of line up while overlooking an
underlying cut in the line that may not be readily evident. You can
usually spot these by taking a very close and careful look and by
discarding enough line ot make sure that you are past all of these
cuts.
Another remedy, which makes perfect sense, but which I have never
seemed to have the forethought to try, is to have ready alternate spare
reel spools that are pre-threaded with line. It may be that a tangled
spool can be freed sufficiently to remove it entirely from the frame and
replace it with another ready one. It has been my experience that the
tangles exceed the clearance or interfere with the removal of the reel
without also cutting a bunch of line. I have sometimes wound up removing
a spool in order to remove the tangle. but not without a lot of line
slashing to get to that point. If I had another ready spool full of good
line, it might make sense at that juncture to replace the other one. I
can't really see that it would, but it might.
I am sometimes accused of being stubborn. I prefer to call it
doggedness. Whatever it is, I have sometimes, more often when in was
young and had fewer alternative resources and options, chosen to
untangle and thereby salvage, if not all, at least some of my fishing
line. My success at this varied, but I am glad that I have this
experience however unpleasant and time-consuming it may have been at the
time. I must have seen no good alternatives. But in the process I
discovered that if one holds his temper and calmly approaches the
problem at hand rationally and with the knowledge that at least some of
these bird's nests are not terminal. they can be untangled fairly
quickly. Even now after more than a half century of fishing experience, I
experience occasional birds nests when using bait-casting reels. This
may be in part because I am constantly fiddling with, fixing, and trying
different reels. But regardless of why it happens, I confess that it
does.
This is why I now know how to deal with my back-lashed lines in
bait-casting reels. the minute the backlash occurs, I try to answer the
question as to why--with a mind of not repeating the mistake or
malfunction with that reel subsequently. This done, I then quickly
assess the degree of the problem.
First:
If it is just a small backlash, then
my odds of a quick recovery are enhanced, though not a hundred-percent. I
will usually decide at this point to test how badly the tangle really
is. This mostly depend upon how tight the wrap has become. If I have not
tried to reel it in, thereby tightening the wrap, the wrap can often be
undone fairly easily by making sure that the spool is released to spin
freely and then gently pulling at wads of the tangled wrap to loosen it.
I then may reverse the turn of the spool, free-wheeling it by hand in
reverse in an effort to uncover and thereby release the main point of
tangle.
If that Doesn't Work then Try this.
This works probably a third of the time. If it does not fix the
tangle or only partially fixes it, I will then lightly pull the line
forward on the lure side of the tangle very lightly--with increasing
tension to see if I can pull the tangle out from the now-loosened coil
of line. Using these two maneuvers alternately will free the backlash
entirely about two-thirds of the time within five minutes or sometimes
much less. I begin to get antsy at this point and will usually resort to
more radical measures. But as a kid, I am sure that I sat down at the
fishing bank and used up most for my fishing time by meticulously
untangling the line. If you do this, our success ultimately depends upon
your ability to loosen the upper wraps so that you can eventually reach
the one or more main binds that originally started the whole mess. My
guess is that if you cannot do this within fifteen minutes you may never
be able to do it. Sometimes, without any help on your part, the
back-lashed line underneath gets way too tight and ties the hardest and
most complex hard knots sufficient to tiny any sailor--even lifers. But
sometimes your effort first, helps you understand the mess for dealing
with the problem the next time and second, salvages at least some of
your fishing line--if this priority exceeds the value of your lost
fishing time.
This is probably the most that I will ever refer to bait-casting reels
in this weblog. I should therefore take opportunity to add my take and
my experience upon how to deal with the inevitable back-lashed bird's
nest condition so often wrought by their use.
These
images remind me of the two old vintage bait-cast reels that I learned
to cast on. It is a wonder that I bothered to learn at all, given the
array of excellent spin-cast reels I had at my disposal. I think I
learned as a requirement for the Boy Scout Fishing Merit Badge on my way
to becoming an Eagle Scout. As I recall, the skill grew on me as does
any skill. But I must have encountered a thousand tangles while
learning--mostly in my backyard with different size bell-sinkers as
practice weights.
I
had an old tire set up as a target. Eventually I took the rig to nearby
ponds and lakes and used them to catch fish. By then, the mid-sixties,
it was rare for anyone of my age to know how to use such antiquated
bait-cast reels with much skill. I dreamed of owning a nice shiny red
Garcia Ambassadeur 5000 or 6000.
After I went into the Navy, I never picked up another bait-cast reel
for at least a couple of decades. I don't know whatever happened to my
old bait-cast reels, but I never missed them. When I did eventually take
a renewed interest in bait-cast reels they had evolved into another dimension. I had heard how much easier they had become to use. But when I
eventually got one, I still found the skills I had learned by thumbing
those old reels as a kid very useful. Old spin-cast reels like the Johnson's and Abu Garcia's still showed much greater versatility and utility then and now.
Is it Worth Your Time?
In the final analysis, whether you should spend the time untangling
or fishing is up to you. But as a general gem of hard-won wisdom, I
offer the idea that tangles and untangling and hooking and hooking and
unhooking, and knotting and unknotting, and cussing or not--is just part
and parcel to the sport of fishing. If it drives you crazy--then
fishing is probably not for you. I use to believe that such incidents
decreased with experience. Then age-related handicaps such as deceased
vision quality, decreased manual dexterity and feeling in the fingers
and hands and arms, increased hand and finger tremors, and generally
decreased endurance--all which are taken for granted in your youth--can
contribute to a decreased fishing enjoyment and increased incidence of
events that work against keeping your hook in front of fish--such as
bait-casting tangles and terminal bird's nests. On the other-hand, many
of these unpleasant events may well be avoided by using spin-casting
reels. Just saying.
The 160 Johnson GUIDE Accu-cast Reel was Johnson's Best Attempt to Overcome all of the Bait-cast Competitive Arguments
Okay, now the crux of the Accu-cast's unique major
difference. The center of the bell is about three times the diameter of
most spin-cast reels of this era. It has been made smooth with a big
sort of grommet which is not readily apparent as to its purpose until the
bell is removed. The underside of the grommet is recessed just inside the
outer parameter of the line exit hole. Still, the purpose is not
apparent until you look at the line spool cover. The smallish nut that
is usually found holding the spool cover in place has been replaced with
a larger nut that is also recessed as a perfect compliment to the
inside recess of the bell.
Several Spin-cast Reels Offer the Ability to Stop Your Lure in Mid-Flight
The function of this male-female fit of this
over-sized hollow spool cover nut is to apply pressure to the line as
the line-release button pushes the spool assembly forward and into the
recess of the underside of the bell--right where the line exits the
inside of the reel. Walah. This is how Johnson's designers met the
bait-casting reel's competition regarding greater accuracy. The idea was
to enable the user to push the line-release button a second time after
the initial cast had been made. This second depression of the
line-release button was intended to slow or even stop cold the forward
travel of the lure--just as a bait-casting reel can do.
So in one fell swoop, this Johnson reel design nullified a major
competitive advantages of bait-casting reels--all with none of the
negatives associated with a free-wheeling spool found on bait-casting
reels. The distance advantage of bait-casting reels is mostly marketing
BS--given a cost-for-cost reel comparison. This is not so hard to
understand without ever even trying one of these two models out in a
side-by-side comparison with a comparable weight and size bait-casting
reel--to say nothing of comparable cost. A spin-cast reel is sometimes
called a closed-face spinning reel by old-timers although you
seldom hear this label anymore. It is actually a more accurate label
because the action principle that allows a spin-cast reel to work is
just like a true spinning reel--also sometimes called an open-face spinning reel.
I offer the idea that tangles and untangling and hooking and hooking and
unhooking, and knotting and unknotting, and cussing or not--is just
part and parcel to the sport of fishing. If it drives you crazy--then
fishing is probably not for you.
An open-face spinning reel has virtually no friction resistance to
limit its reach even when using a very light lure. In conjunction with a
long limber-action spinning rod, the forward motion of the cast propels
even light-weight lures very long distances because the line is simply
unwinding from the spool with hardly any restrictive friction from what
little it touches the edges of the spool. This same principle is used
with a spin-cast reel with only slightly more resistance as the line
touches the center of the line exit-hole in the reel bell.
Furthermore, an open-face spinning reel does not do so well with
heavier lures, due to the delicate operation of the method of release
and also due to the line's tendency for uncontrollability because of no
method for constraining the target of the line's exit. A spin-cast
reel's bell itself with the line-exit hole solves this problem. The net
result is that a spin-cast reel can handle a much wider range of lure
weights with no adjustment or hassles.
The addition of the Johnson Accu-cast feature to these
models of spin-cast reels only enhances the capability of the spin-cast
reel. I can see no downside to this feature. The drawback is that it
doesn't work very well intuitively--or did not for me. I am sure I
could get use to it. The only time I really might use such a feature is
if I see that I am going to wind up on the bank or in a tree. When I
use a spin-casting reel, I intuitively grab the line with my non-casting
hand where it exits the reel and squeeze it against the rod. So it is
not like there are no alternatives with a spin-cast reel. This feature
certainly works as intuitively as does a modern bait-casting flipping
switch. And it requires very little practice. So why was this feature
not a commercial success?
Some Current Production Diawa Spin-cast Reels Still Offer the Feature that Johnson Pioneered as the Accu-cast Features.
The Gold Cook's Premier fishing reel is one of the nicest examples that I have of a rebadged Johnson Century 100A that was specially made for another company. I happened to snag this one off of ebay. They are fairly rare, so not many people even know that they existed, so I had little bid competition.On another day I could have easily been outbid beyond what I am willing to pay. This one came to me in mint condition. It is still pretty nice, although I haven't used mcuh care in letting it rub up against other reels and get a few superdficially scratches. It doesn't matter because I will keep this one. If we can call a fishing reel pretty, this one is.
The Johnson Century 100, 100A, and 100B was a huge success. So much so that it inspired numerous other spin-cast reel spin-offs that were marketed by other manufacturers. Most of them are easily recognizable as using the same basic mechanisms as did the Johnson models. Over half a century later, the Johnson Century is still apparent in those most modern spin-cast reels designed and manufactured under the John so label and all other labels. Those early competitive brand reels are so obviously similar that I wonder how they got around the Johnson patents. I don't know but what the other companies paid Johnson royalties or otherwise compensated Johnson for the similarities in their own designs. My research into these questions has just begun, so I don't yet have any answers about this, but I hope to have more soon. I invite anyone who may have insight into these questions to comment and help bring these things to resolution.
However, there were also specific Johnson made reels that were specially made by Johnson to be re-badged under other labels. I have been told that there were several of these including those for Montgomery Ward, Sears, and Cook Premier. The only one of these that I actually have examples of in my possession is the Cooks Premier brand. The one I have is a near-mint condition gold model. It is a beautiful reel.
I also have in my possession, what is likely an unauthorized cheap Japanese imitation of the Johnson Century 100 model spincast reel. It was sold under the name Jorgensen Cub spin-cast reel. It is silver and resembles the Johnson model a great deal in appearance. However, the metal and other materials are much flimsier. The painting is inferior, and the design lacks certain subtle nuances that provide a much greater appreciation for the engineering that went into the Johnson Century reel. As a result of having used many different reels of this vintage with a critical eye of comparison, I can tell you that minute alterations in the shape and placement of the bell, the hole in the bell through which the line runs, the spool cover, and the spool, to mention a few is critical to the proper release and retrieval of the line. Clearly some science was involved in determining these tolerances as well a great deal of trial and error.
Having repaired quite a few old reels over the years, I have discovered that very slight changes, such as flipping what appears to be a standard washer, or doubling-up standard thickness washers to increase their thickness can make a world of difference in the operation of a reel. In order to fully maximize the design and all of the features of a given reel model, it is necessary to fully understand the purpose of each feature and how it was designed to work. Sometimes this is not as easy as it sounds. The way we fish today has changed quite a bit in sixty years. But in order to make these old vintage reels work as they should, we must understand how the old-timers who were being targeted as a market back in the day, fished, and what their status quo was.
I feel that some of these features were not quite grasped by the Japanese manufacturer of the Jorgensen Cub copy of the Johnson, may not have understood these things, as these copies do not work as well as do the originals--even though they look almost exactly alike in all but cosmetic aspects. I have both worked for modern Japanese companies as well as have used Japanese made products over the period of times that they went from being a minor player in manufacturing consumer goods to being recognized as a viable producer of excellent product at affordable prices of virtually all kinds of consumer goods.
There is a lot of confusion among fishermen and collectors about the differences between these reels. I once thought I knew these differences, but I am now not so sure. It is more complicated than I first realized and there are several contributing reason for these questions. First, the inventors and manufacturers of Johnson Spin-cast reels apparently faced enourmous pressure to get their reels patented and into production. I wish I knew the stories behind these events. They have to be intriguing.
There are even hints of industrial espionage and inter-brand negotiations to share designs that spanned those earliest years and several continents. The designers were talented engineers and inventors by trade. The biggest names in the fishing reel industry were involved as were others unknown. A lot was at stake--million--ultimately billions of dollars were to be spent in a growing time of post-war leisure and dispensable money. Although not merely a difference in the design of the drag as there are other differences, the drag is indeed the big difference.
There had to be enormous pressure to both file the patents and have them patents issued and to get the products out. The first Johnson models were reasonably successful, although they were quickly eclipsed by the new models. The side-mounted design of the Johnson Models 10 through 80 got Johnson reels in production and got their advertising and promotional machine wound up and their products on the map.These models got the notice of fishermen. they had attractive--no beautiful--shiny emerald-green metal bells and solid but light construction. It was essential to follow-up the last of these models--the Johnson Model 80--with a true deal-breaker. And they had to beat competitors who were nipping at their heels to the market in order to capture the burgeoning market of sport-fishermen who were ready and waiting for such a product. The Johnson Century 100 may have not undergone a great deal of field testing in the rush. The drag was so simple, that it was very easy to produce. But it was also so simple that during heavy use it was not as useful as it could be. These deficiencies became apparent quickly and several attempts to make it better were tried.
Some of these changes were seamless and took place during production. They involved simple changes in clips and retainers and springs. They may have involved more major changes that were later to be used on the new models. I am not sure of this, but I have observed these changes in the construction and assembly of these old reels as they have come to me years later. Several possibilities exist for these differences. The first is that they may have indeed been made during production of the Model 100. Or they may have been retrofitted after the fact by either fishermen obtaining the parts or upgrade kits offered by Johnson for free or for as small fee. Or they may have been made at the factory when consumers sent them back in to be fixed. I have no documentation in my possession declaring this, but I am of the understanding that any reel could be sent back to the Johnson factory to have it fixed, for a fixed three bucks. It is possible that many of these variant reels may be the result of these trips back to the factory.
Yet another possible explanation for these old Model 100's winding up in my hands in different configurations years after their production may be the result of the inevitable tinkering and combining of later models that fishermen, antiquers, and reclaimers are prone to do on their own. I have no doubt that at least some of these changes happened just so. But not all.
The image of a Johnson Century 100A above shows a typical drag adjustment screw head that has been buggered by someone using the wrong-sized screwdriver, unnecessarily I might add, in an effort to adjust the simple drag. The relative range of the drag can be adjusted by simply using an index and forefinger to lift the entire drag dial and indicator/adjustment knob straight up with one hand, while using another finger--most easily from the other hand--to turn the adjustment knob either counter-clockwise or clockwise to make the drag heavier or lighter, respectively. The dial and knob is then released, making sure that the spring tension pulls the dial face and knob back into the screw hole. (A bump sideways until the screw seats properly may be required.)
The photo below shows both the metal dial face and indicator of a Johnson Century 100 as well as the drag mechanism inside--with the green bell removed. Only on the earliy Johnson Century 100 and the Johnson Century Citation 110 (without any additional "A" or "B" designation) is this inside mechansim visible. Unlike the updated models, A or B, the relative tension is not adjustable.
The drag mechanism is moved ever so slightly by the linkage between the
dial knob/indicator (not visible in this photograph) when it is rotated one way or the other, thereby
creating greater friction against the inner line spool must overcome to create
more or less drag when fish pulls against the line. Of course, the
purpose for this adjustment we call drag is to keep the tug of a fish or
hang-up to keep from snapping the line if it excedes the strngth of the
line. This scheme quickly proved inadequate which led to several
subsequent changes.
Below, the inner drag mechanism was changed on the Johnson Century 100A and the Citation 110A. The change created a more sure tension by expanding the inner nylon yoke so that it would crease more friction resistance against the spool. Johnson changed the outer dial and knob from metal to hard black rubber (or plastic), and increased the range from 1-6, to 1-8. The relative tension of the drag was also made user adjustable. One other change was to make the spool easily user-changeable from right to left side crank. Both of these upgraded features were explained in the operator instructions as shown.
We will proced now with how to disassemble the reel, cleaning as we go on our way to accessing the internal components that make the drag work or not work as the case may be. In the last post, we got to removing the nylon spool that is actually one of the components of the drag. On the Johnson 100 or 110 models, the drag relies on a dial located on top of the reel housing. It was originally numbered from 1 to 6. The dial was made out of metal. Turning the metal dial indicator moved a linkage under the dial which operated a brass lever located just inside the nylon spool core. This caused a slight movement that tightedned the line spool tension.
These
images remind me of the two old vintage bait-cast reels that I learned
to cast on. It is a wonder that I bothered to learn at all, given the
array of excellent spin-cast reels I had at my disposal. I think I
learned as a requirement for the Boy Scout Fishing Merit Badge on my way
to becoming an Eagle Scout. As I recall, the skill grew on me as does
any skill. But I must have encountered a thousand tangles while
learning--mostly in my backyard with different size bell-sinkers as
practice weights. 
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