A small home or custom professional darkroom should not be confused with a large automated photofinishing lab. The equipment is different, and the custom darkroom allows greater flexibility to improve images. The following gear is listed more and less in order of importance, but all are necessary for a properly outfitted room. I will also provide photos and diagrams to help this make sense.
Thes items once cost thousands of dollars. Toda, they can be had for penies on the dollar over eBay and used equipment stores.
- A room that can be made dark, approximately three times longer than it is wide. 6’x16’ is about perfect.
- At least one light-tight door.
- Tables, built in or free-standing, ideally with open shelf space below. The tables should be about 18”x6’. A comfortable working height while standing is 50 inches.
- A second table should be about 24”x6’. It should have a cut-out that extends only 8” x30” in the center. It should be about 40” tall. It will reside opposite the first table.
- An enlarger mounted to the 8” piece left from the cut-out. The enlarger head will overhang and project images vertically onto the cutout surface, which can be moved up and down either manually on rungs, or on a stable motorized track.
- A double fiberglass utility sink should butt up against the right end of the tallest table as you face it. It should be covered by Formica or other chemical resistant covering.
- These sinks needs to be double-plumbed with hot and cold water. In lieu of these sinks, a 24”x72”x12”(deep) custom built metal or wood/fiberglass sink with triple drains and evenly space double-faucets, hot & cold—might be considered.
- An abundance of electrical outlets, and three light fixtures.
- At least one wall-mounted safelight, above the tallest table. As white light mounted overhead, with the wall switch mounted near, but not too near, the safelight switch. two more safelights.
- A ceiling,wall, or door expulsion vent and fan and wall switch.
- A shelf mounted above and running the length of the tallest table.
- A pegboard sheet might well be mounted above the tallest table and sink. Ripping the board in half long-ways will work nicely.
- 6-16”x20” open photographic print processing trays.
- A tall film drying cabinet located at the end of the room on the right side of the sink-side of the room.
- A chrome, stainless steel, or durable plastic water-driven print-washer. The kind that is a plumber vat for fresh water in and out that drives perforated center cylinder is my preference.
- A Large Interval timer such as Graf-Lab, with automatic light switches and alarm switches are nice. It can be read in the dark.
- All the tanks necessary for film processing.
- Hoses that can be slipped over the faucet hoses.
- Print tongs, film hanger clips and weights. Small and large thick glass or plastic graduated photographic mixing beakers. 2 - Two Gal. capacity mixing containers. Chemical stirring paddles.
- An enlargement Grain Focusing scope
- A variety of different size, and adjustable enlarging easels up to the largest print size that you will regularly be making.
- Enlarging lenses and film carriers for each size negative you will be enlarging from.
- A paper safe or safes to accommodate different sizes of photographic paper.
- For larger prints and color prints, a Jobo print enlarging cylinder and motor-drive is useful too.
- Poly-contrast enlarging filters, Red enlarging filter.
- A Time-O-Light automatic enlarging timer.
- An enlarger foot-switch.
- A Supply Spec Reference Book.
- A non-lighted telephone.
- A simple intercom system.
- Optionally, a light–trap or dark-entry door for access. Very useful.
- A small hand hair-dryer.
- Various Miscellaneous items accoring to your preferences and needs.